Short answer: A steel door lasts as long as its finish does. Wash it a few times a year with mild soap, a soft brush and a garden hose, working from the top down, and skip the pressure washer. Wax a factory painted finish if the care guide allows it, touch up scratches before they rust and keep sprinklers and chemicals off the door. Leave creased panels, springs, cables and bottom brackets to a professional.

Steel is tough, low maintenance and holds its shape well. But low maintenance isn't no maintenance. The finish on a steel door is what keeps rust away, and once that finish gets scratched or worn, moisture finds the metal underneath.
A little care a few times a year keeps the finish doing its job.
Steel garage doors aren't all alike, and the differences change how you care for them.
If you have your door's care guide, it's the final word. The wrong cleaner can dull or damage some finishes.
For windows and decorative inserts, see our guide to window and panel care. Near the coast, our guide to humid and coastal areas covers rinsing off salt.
On a factory painted door, a coat of non-abrasive car wax once or twice a year helps water bead off and slows fading. Apply it to a clean, dry door out of direct sun and buff it off with a soft cloth. Skip wax on wood look film finishes unless the maker says it's fine. Doors that face strong sun benefit the most, and our hot climate care guide has more on sun and heat.
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A scratch through the paint is an opening for rust. Clean the spot, let it dry and touch it up with matching exterior paint or the touch-up paint your door's maker sells. If rust has already started on a panel, our guide to rust on a garage door walks through what to do and what to leave alone.
If the color has faded or you want a new one, a steel door can usually be repainted. Check the maker's guide first. Then:
A shallow dent that hasn't cracked the paint is mostly cosmetic. A dent that creases a section, bends its edge or sits near a hinge is different. It can stop the door from rolling smoothly over the curve of the track. Don't hammer it or pull it out. Have a professional check it, since some damaged sections need replacing.
The springs are set for your door's weight as it is. Heavy decorative hardware, add-on insulation and thick coats of paint all add weight. If you're planning a change like that, ask a professional whether the balance needs to be reset afterward. Springs, cables and bottom brackets are under high tension, so if you see rust on any of them, note it and call a professional. A yearly tune-up checks those parts and tests the balance.
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It's best to skip it. A garden hose is enough, since a pressure washer can strip the finish and force water into seams. Wash with mild soap and a soft brush, working from the top down.
Many factory painted steel doors can be waxed with a non-abrasive car wax once or twice a year. It helps water bead off. Skip wax on wood look film finishes unless the maker says it's fine.
Usually, yes. Check the maker's guide, clean the door, use an exterior paint made for metal in thin coats and keep paint off the seals, rollers, hinges and tracks. Leave springs, cables and bottom brackets untouched.
Gauge describes how thick the steel is. A lower gauge number means thicker steel, which resists dents better. Thinner steel dents more easily from balls, bikes and bumpers.